From BLTN

[edit] Full Flow Pushlock hoses

by AntonK.

I am upgrading my oil lines for my remote filter and as you might know there are few options.

1. custom cut and fitted lines with an fittings and etc
2. cheap barb fittings and clamps.

Now for those who are on the budget option #2 is more realistic, but you end up with small leaks here and there.

Well here is an option which is kind of in the middle, and it's push on hoses/fittings. Just the lines and fittings are approximately in $50 range. Which isn't really bad now. And you will have lines that can be disconnected without having to pull the hose off the fitting.

Here are the links to the lines and fittings: Pushon hoses and fittings link Pushon fittings

If you look at the fittings you can tell that there are no special tools required to mate fitting with the line. I have already installed one side. Just lay out hoses on the sun for 20 minutes and push it onto the fitting with your bare hands.

To begin with I am running cb maxi 3 26 mm oil pump on my fairly stock 1600 dual port engine. Some folks say that these are big restrictive mainly because fittings at the pump are 1/4 inch, however this pump works mighty fine on stock engine. My oil pressure is 20 psi at idle and 55 psi while cruising at 3k. One thing about this pump and why the fittings are so small is because this pump needs to be so low profile to be able to clearance engine tin behind pulley. Never the less there is still a need to cut a small opening in the tin.

Here is the parts list and prices to give you an exact idea of how much this oil lines will cost you.

Cost List

QTY:	Part #	Part Desc.	Price	Ext Price
2	***48F-8-4	Fitting, 1/4 -8 Male	3.50	7.00
2	***48F-8-6	Fitting, 1/2-3/8 -8 Male	3.50	7.00
4	***30682-8-8B	Fitting, Reusable Cushlok	5.95	23.80
5	***801-8-BLK	Hose, Push-lok #8 Black	3.50	17.50

I have also bought Thermo-Tec Heat Sleeves to add more heat protection to the lines near exhaust. Oil hoses are about 2.5 feet while sleeves are only 3 feet and 3/4 inch in diameter. Cut it in half and you will have just enough to sleeve over parts of the hoses around exhaust and in general engine bay area. These are $31.69 at summit racing (Thermo-Tec Heat Sleeves).

Another piece is remote oil filter adapter plate which bolts to bumper bracket and moves oil filter adapter way up in the fender where it is out of sight and safe from rocks, well safer... The only place I found these are at JCWhiteney these are EMPI, but don't look too bad and come painted black. Part # ZX516942N $13.99. These will work even on super, and you don't need to put extra speed holes into your car just to mount a filter adapter. It comes with 3 long bolts to replace bumper bracket bolts. You still need to come up with a set of 8 mm 3 nuts and bolts to mount adapter to the plate.

One more thing you will need is a thread sealer. You can use teflon tape, but I've opted out for Permatex thread sealant (PX# 59214). As you can tell from the picture it is $4.49 any decent FLAPS should have it on hand.

As you might imagine you should drail oil first before you proceed with disconnecting existing lines and etc.

First you start with laying out your hoses somewhere on the sun. If it's a nice warm day it won't take too long to get them warm enough to be able to push em over the cushlok. Now remember you don't want any of these parts getting dirty, so if it's windy find a nice, calm spot for them.

Once they nice and warm slip them over the fittings, it will go about 1/2 way just in your bare hands. When it get's too tight simply put the fitting agains piece of board on the ground and push down the hose onto the fitting till it bottoms out on the yellow ring. Sound easy? It is! I am just under 130 lbs. and didn't break a sweat.

Now that you got one side of the hoses onto the fittings move over to your oil pump and oil filter adapter. If you car is already pumbed, clean everything before taking off the existing fittings. You DO NOT want to get any dirt into the pump or the filter adapter. Before you put on new fittings clean em with carb cleaner and blow them out with compressed air. No you don't have to have an air compressor. Air in a can works just as well. One thing I did before installing all fittings is doing a dry run. Install fittings loosely and check for clearances. Use those 2 oil hoses we did a half of job on with the fittings.

Here you can see that hoses are almost touching eachover, and that first hose you put on has to have nut turned so that it's flat toward the other fitting otherwise you won't be able to bolt on the second hose.

On the oil adapter side hose would end up rubbing if bracket was bolted flat. So I had to move all 3 washers under the bracket on the front side.

Here is a close up of the washers under the bracket.

Put some sealant onto the fitting before installing. You want to leave a few threads clean and just smear some around one or two threads. Simular idea as you would use teflon tape, keep it on the threads not inside the pump or adapter.

Install fittings into pump and adapter, do one at a time, and tighten them nice and snug. Don't go crazy with a wrench, these are pipe threads they are self sealing.

Once you are done you should end up with something like this:

At this point you can really lay out the oil lines and how they make their way from the pump to the adapter. Watch out for kinks, you want to see nice gradual turns, with enough clearance around exhaust components and ground. Slip on those thermo sleeves if you got em, they fit just like a glove. If they get stubborn just squish them, push them from the end. I've attached hoses at the pump first and pushed hoses against adapter to figure out exact length that I need to cut to. Install the last 2 cushloks onto the hoses and snug up in place.

Now you can install new oil filter, don't forget to fill it up with oil, your oil lines are bone dry and having empty filter will make it a lot longer to prime. Fill up with oil, and remove your oil pressure switch and wire from the coil, disconnect at the oil not at the cap.

Put a paper towel under the pressure switch opening. Now crank the engine over a few times. Don't run for long a few turns at a time, stop and repeat untill you get oil coming out of the oil pressure opening. Now watch out, it won't seep out a little bit, but rather throw up all over your breast tin! Better yet, put an oil pan under the engine. Now that you've established that your new oil lines are primed, reinstall the pressure switch and reconnect the wires. Check that it works, by turning on ignition and making sure the oil pressure light in the speedo is on.

Don't reconnect ignition wire to the coil yet. Crank it over a few times and make sure your oil light goes out. Check for oil leaks around new fittings at the pump and the oil filter adapter. If you find any, tighten the fittings or cushloks.

Now you are ready to start the engine. Reconnect the ignition wire, and start er up! Check oil pressure and for leaks again.

Here are some things that I wished I did a little differently.

• Cushloks for oil filter adapter would be better with 90deg bend as they would drop the lines down and loop down straight to the oil pump. Well I will look for those in the mean while. They will also shorten my oil lines by almost a 1/2 foot. Right now hoses kinda run forward then down and back.
• Add a few wire clamps to keep hoses from moving. One set can go to the bottom cylinder tin and the other onto the fender well near oil filter adapter.
• Take a group photo of all the parts! I laid them out in a nice naturmort fashion, but forgot to snap a picture. :(

[edit] Update

I was able to source a set of 90 deg fittings from the same place. This coming weekend lines will be getting trimmed. A pair of these fittings is around $27.

P.S. I hope this page helps to visualize what pushloks are and how to install them. I've tried to cover the steps as detailed as possible. You are welcome to comment on this page by sending me an email to akokarski at gmail dot com, but please understand that this page is for informational purposes only. Basically if you screw up, you are on your own.